This kit was developed with the help of Mr. Graham Ball when he decided to build the NSWGR Dental Cars, which included the bogie water gin. Graham had already highly detail his water gin but discussed the possibility of etching a few parts that would improve the model even further and give a more consistent result. As the main component required was to be the curved ladder, there would be plenty of unused space that would be wasted, so more useable components were added to the etch, which then provided the modeller with plenty of optional levels of detail to aspire to. Dimensions for many of the parts were obtained from the bogie water gins that reside at the NSW Rail Transport Museum at Thirlmere NSW. Please enjoy detailing your water gin and please give any feedback that think could improve this kit or for that matter any KRM Product.

The parts included in the etch are parts that are fitted to the 2 water gins at the NSWRTM at Thirlmere, as well as the water gin that can be found at Dorrigo (NSW). With this in mind, it is very important that the prototype that you are basing the model on is catered for photographically. There are photos of various styles of NSW water gins that can be seen from the link to the bogie water gin gallery below. Photos of a version of the riveted water gin can also be found on ARDP Volume 2 taken by Graham Baker (copyright 2004).

I hope you enjoy this kit and I would love to receive any feedback that would improve this kit as well as any other Keiran Ryan Models kit that you have worked with Email Feedback

Step 1 - Tools & Equipment		Stainless Steel Scissors Tweezers or other small no maring clamping device (Metric) Number Drills & Pin Vice Small Files Soldering Iron Hold & Fold Tool Solder & Flux or Solder Paint Snap-off Cutting Blade Fine Wet & Dry Paper 0.3mm brass wire (0.012") Burnishing Brush (Be very Careful) Selleys Acrylic Quickgrip Cutting Board Lets get ready to Moddddddeeeeeelllllll
Step 2 - Preparing the Ladder Jig (L)		Re-Read the instructions (Yeah I Know!!!!!!) Drill out the 6 holes in the drilling jig (L) using a 0.4mm drill. (Refer to top photo at left) Remove the etch from the fret Hold the etch with a pair of tweezers, and with a small butane torch, heat the etch to anneal it (soften). This allows the etch to form smoothly around the tank (Refer to bottom photo at left)
Step 3 - Drilling the tank body for the ladder		The tank should be glued to the base before the holes are drilled for the ladder. Locate the jig on the tank so that the large hole in the jig fits over the plastic extension on the top of the tank. (refer to top photo at left) Cut 2 thin strips of masking tape. Place one strip over the jig length (Refer to the 2nd photo at left), and press the annealed jig tightly onto the body and using the masking tape, secure the jig, to the tank, going under the tank base and forward of the cross brace to bring the jig square to the tank. (Refer to the bottom photo at left)(There is a tendency for the jig to pull to the front if this is not done) Use the other piece of Masking tape to hold the jig hard against the body. Drill the 6 holes through the jig into the tank body using a 0.4mm drill. These holes are used to locate the curved ladder. Remove the jig, and place the tank in a safe location until you are ready to test fit the ladder.
Step 4 - Preparing the Etch		Identify the parts on the main etch, using the legend in the main photo above. Drill out the holes in the ladder stiles (A) using a 0.3mm drill Drill out the holes in the following parts using a 0.4mm drill. (C) Handbrake Spider Wheels,(D) Handbrake Brackets and (E) Handbrake Packing. Drill out the holes in the following parts using a 0.5mm drill. (B) Pipe Packing and (J) Tank End Pipe Plates. You can also drill out the top hole in (D) the Handbrake Brackets with the 0.5mm drill. (Refer to the photo at left)
Step 5 - Lets build the Ladder		Carefully remove the ladder from the fret cutting with stainless steel scissors at points indicated. (Refer to the top photo at left). Very carefully fold the ladder. (Refer to the 2nd photo at left) Cut and locate sections of 0.3mm (0.012") wire through the rung holes of the ladder stiles. Using the KRM Misc 004 Ladder Forming Support Jig to assist you, locate the ladder in the jig using the 12"ladder width groves. You will need to move the ladder on the support jig as you build the rungs into the ladder. (Refer to the 3rd photo at left) Place Carrs 188 Solder Paint on the wire runs outside the stiles, and apply the soldering iron to the wire, allowing the solder to form a joint between the rung and the stile. Continue this with all the rungs of the ladder. Solder all the rungs onto one side of the ladder, ensuring that the rungs are square to the ladder stiles Solder both END and centre rungs into place (this gauges the ladder width) and remove the existing tab holding the stiles together. Finish soldering the ladder rungs in place, remove any excess wire and solder and clean up with some wet and dry paper, wash in warm soapy water and allow to dry, leaving you with a finished ladder. (Refer to the 4th photo at left) The ladder can now be test fitted to the water gin. The tabs on the ladder should slot into the holes in the tank. The fit should be tight but not tight enough to distort the ladder. The ladder should virtually spring into place. (Refer to the bottom photo at left)
Step 6 - Detailing the rest of the Water Gin		The detail level that is applied to this water gin is up to the individual. While the parts supplied can drastically improve the basic Silvermaz Kit with just the inclusion of the ladder: the fitting of the handbrake detail and a few other parts are mentioned briefly below The handbrake detail can be fitted to the kit, but the position of the parts is assisted by the use of photographs. The handbrake brackets are suitable for both the kit and the RTM versions of the water gin, but they are located in the reverse position (Refer to the top 2 photos at left) The tank end pipe plates (J) can be laminated and the spaces added to fit to the ends of the tank, or special fittings can be scratchbuilt if desired. The marker lamp brackets (G) are not fitted to all water gins, and care needs to be taken when folding and fitting the brackets. Use a sharp knife to give the fold line a little more "Give" but DO NOT cut all the way through. The idea is to make the marker lamp bracket fold a little easier. Then referring to photos from the photo gallery, bend or remove the marker lamp holders as required. To fit the brackets, refer to photos.(Refer to the 3rd & 4th photos at left) The tank filler lid (I) can be centrally located on the plastic filler extension. (Refer to the 5th photo at left) The lift rings are simply glued into position on the tank (Refer to the 6th photos at left) The shunters steps are suitable for mainly the RTM gins and are very simple to make up. Fold the steps into a "U" shape and look for a small hole on the etch. Using 2 pairs of flat jaw pliers, grab the etch with the edge of the pliers intersecting the hole and twist the top of the steps at 90 degrees. Do the same to both sides of the steps. You only get one chance at this as the steps them become very brittle. (Refer to the bottom 2 photos at left) Then glue the shunters steps into place (using photos as a reference for their location.
Step 7 - Finishing the Job - Hints & Tips.	.	For painting the finished vehicle, I would prefer that you use the photos of the prototype in making this decision, as it is purely an individual action, based on what you see in real life. I prefer to weather these vehicle, as they were only ever in a new condition ONCE in their life, from that time on, they became grubby, dirty, rusty & damaged and even had graffiti on them. There is much more that can be fitted to these vehicles to make them more complete, things such as handrails, brake clevis parts, and brake rods, wire parts to simulate brake piping, and so much more. The level of detail is only limited by the modellers IMAGINATION, and lets face it, THAT has NO LIMITS The next batch of this etch will have the old ladder removed and in it's place will be the bulkhead inspection hatches, and the main brake lever. and some smaller parts that may enhance the vehicle even more. These parts will also be available separately for a minimal fee. This is based on the continual improvement principal, which I have adopted. If you have any comments, or ideas as to how I can improve this kit, please don't hesitate to contact me by email or phone on 61 2 46772462

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