If there is one thing that I would like to impress upon you, it is the benefit of using quality tools to do your work; the end result of any job is plainly due to the use of good quality tools. And there is also a saving by using good tools, because they last longer, and therefore you do not need to replace them as often.

1. Stainless Steel Scissors
2. Tweezers or other small no maring clamping device
3. (Metric) Number Drills & Pin Vice
4. Small Files
5. Soldering Iron
6. Hold & Fold Tool
7. Solder & Flux or Solder Paint
8. Snap-off Cutting Blade
9. Fine Wet & Dry Paper
10. 0.4mm brass wire (0.014")
11. Burnishing Brush (Be very Careful)
12. Selley's Acrylic Quick grip
13. Cutting Board

1. Re-Read the instructions (Yeah I Know!!!!!!)
2. Using a 0.4mm drill, clean out all the holes in the etch.
3. Using a sharp pointed pair of stainless steel scissors, cut the components out of the fret, as you use them so as not to lose parts (refer to photo at left)

1. Unscrew the base of the hopper from the body(refer to top photo at left)
2. Remove the existing plastic brake brackets on the hopper (on both sides),(refer to 2nd photo at left)and clean up the plastic so that the base of the vehicle is flat.
3. Using a small piece of wet & dry paper, rough up the flat surface on the hopper door (refer to bottom photo at left).

1. The Lever & ratchet along with a packing ring can be sequered to the support bracke before the bracket is fitted to the body,(ensuring that the bracket is square with the body and base. Allow the glue to dry.
2. Fold the brackets at right angles and fit and glue (supaglue) the brackets into place (refer to top photo at left)ensuring that the bracket is square with the body and base. Allow the glue to dry.
3. You can re-enforce the brackets by drilling out the holes in the brackets using a 0.4mm drill, and fitting and glueing 0.4mm brass wire in the holes of the body.(refer to bottom photo at left) This process is optional

1. The brake lever with ratchet is located on the left side of the hopper when looking at the vehicle. (refer to photo at left)
2. Use the photos in the gallery to obtain the necessary information, as far as packing the parts out from the bracket
3. The brake wheel, lever and ratchet, can be glued or soldered in place.
4. Solder or glue the 0.4mm wire to one of the brake spider wheels, ensure that they are square to the wheel.
5. Solder or glue the 0.4mm wire to the lever/ratchet using the lever hole, as the other wire from the wheel goes through the ratchet. Pack the parts out using the washers/packing rings supplied with the etch. The diagram at left will assist in the location of all the components (refer to centre photo at left)
6. After trial fitting the other lever and brake wheel, trim the wire and locate the brake wheel and any washers/packing rings, using glue or solder. If you wish to allow the brake wheel to rotate, be careful when gluing or soldering the parts in place.
7. The base before the body is re fitted ( Refer to bottom photo at left) The top of the support bracket is not seen when the body is screwed back inplace. This is a very simple if not slightly fiddly kit and improves the look of the RU Grain Hopper greatly.

1. Thje photos to the left show the unpainted model of the KRM HO 006 RU wheat Hopper Kit attached.
2. For painting the finished vehicle, the preferred method is to use photos of the prototype in making this decision, as it is purely an individual choice , based on what you see in real life. I prefer to weather these vehicle, as they were only ever in a new condition ONCE in their life, from that time on, they became grubby, dirty, rusty & damaged.
3. If you have any comments, or ideas as to how I can improve this kit, please don't hesitate to contact me
   by email or phone on 61 2 46772462